El Salvador is a tiny country, about the size of the US state of Massachusetts, located on the Pacific coast of Central America. It's bordered by Guatemala to the west, Honduras to the north and east, and the Pacific Ocean to the south.

For the most part, El Salvador is lush, green and surrounded by cloud-misted hills. More than 25 extinct volcanoes dot the country, the largest being San Salvador, San Vicente, Santa Ana and San Miguel. Less than 6% of the country remains forested since the land is intensively cultivated; coffee predominates in the highlands, sugar in the lowlands and cotton on the coastal plains. However, with the highest level of environmental damage in the Americas, El Salvador runs the risk of losing its beauty, especially since it's the only country in Latin America without environmental protection laws. Many of the country's river systems suffer from pollution, and some fear that at the current rate of destruction the country will run out of drinking water in less than 15 years.

Although industrial development and hotel construction are major threats to the environment, the most visible problem is trash. A circle of soaring vultures usually indicates where a new load has been dumped by the side of the road. Other fauna that has survived this onslaught includes quetzals, toucans, monkeys, white-tailed deer and zillions of butterflies. There are, however, 90 endangered species in El Salvador, including marine turtles and armadillos.

A wet and a dry season dominate El Salvador's climate. During the wet season (May to October), there's generally a downpour every evening. Between November and April the country is dry and dusty. Daytime temperatures vary little, reaching around 30°C (86°F) in November and 34°C (93°F) in March and April. The coastal lowlands are much hotter than the rest of the country. San Salvador is 680m (2230ft) above sea level, so it has a moderate climate compared to other parts of the country, but it's still pretty sweaty.

You'll pay more for accommodation and food in El Salvador than in neighboring countries, but at least bus transportation is cheap. Budget travelers willing to be resourceful should be able to live on US$10 a day; travelers wanting more comfortable accommodation and a few sit-down meals should expect to spend US$20-25 a day; and anyone in search of the finer things in El Salvador should budget at least US$30 a day.

In January 2001, the US dollar became the legal currency, and the colón is gradually being phased out. It's best to bring US dollars, as it's the only currency that you can be sure of exchanging. Few banks change travelers' checks readily and easily, and the policy seems to differ not only between banks but between branches as well. Be sure to change any leftover colónes before you leave El Salvador.

A value-added tax (IVA) of 10% is applied to all goods and services in El Salvador; make sure you know whether it's already included in the listed price.

The dry season (November-April) is the easiest time to visit: roads are in better condition, you won't get drenched every evening and more cultural festivals take place. The biggest holiday periods are from Christmas through mid-January; during Semana Santa, a week-long festival before Easter; and during the first week of August when San Salvador holds its annual festival. Many services shut down during these periods and hotel prices can rise up to 50%. In the rainy season (May-October), prices are lower, beaches less crowded and the evenings slightly cooler after the rainstorms.