Looking like a caricature of some square-jawed, cackling woman with a mouthful of Gambia, Senegal sits at the westernmost edge of the African continent. Its borders are met by Guinea and Guinea-Bissau to the south, Mali to the east, Mauritania to the north and the North Atlantic Ocean to the west. The independent nation of Gambia is entirely enveloped (save where it meets the Atlantic) by Senegal's southwestern region, forming the 'lips' of the giant face and separating northern Senegal from its southern region, called the Casamance. The country as a whole is slightly smaller than Great Britain or the US state of South Dakota.

Senegal's climate is pleasantly tropical, with Dakar ranking as one the coolest, breeziest spots in West Africa. The country's average daily temperatures range from 18°C (65°F) and 31°C (87°F). In the north and central parts, the wet season lasts from July to September, while in the Casamance it's about a month longer on either end. Rainfall averages range from 300mm (12in) in the north to as much as six times that in the south; Dakar gets over 600mm (24in) annually. The dry season (December to April) is plagued by the hot, dry harmattan winds.

Senegal is washed by three rivers: the Senegal in the north, which forms the border with Mauritania; the Gambia in the middle, which is surrounded by Gambia but for it's easternmost origins; and the Casamance in the south, which lends that region its name as well as its striking fertility. Desertification throughout the north of the country is an ever-increasing problem, only partially alleviated by the Manantalli Dam on the Senegal River. The country's lowest points are its Atlantic shores, while its highest lies in the Fouta Djallon foothills, which top out around 580m (1900ft).

Senegal is the most biologically diverse country in the Sahel, the semi-arid region south of the Sahara desert, and boasts over 550 animal species. It is also important for migrating birds, particularly waterfowl, which return in large numbers each winter from Europe, stopping at the Parc National aux Oiseaux du Djoudj, one of the world's major bird reserves, north of St-Louis.

Hotels in Dakar are expensive by the standards of other African capitals, though they're still relatively cheap for Westerners. There are a few bargain places as well as plenty of places to splurge, if you're in a regal mood. Budget travellers should figure on spending US$15-20 a day, mid-rangers about double that. Even hard-core spenders will be hard pressed to part with more than US$100 a day. Outside the capital, prices are significantly lower at all but the most touristed sites.

Cashing travellers' cheques is easy in Dakar but difficult elsewhere if they're not in French francs. Some banks give cash advances with Visa cards, but sometimes only for French cards (eg Carte Bleue), as they are easier to verify. The process can take 24 hours. There are banks in all the main towns and one at the airport. Bargaining is common in the markets.

The best time to travel in Senegal is between November and February, when it's cool and dry. However, around this same time of year the dry, dusty