The Seychelles is a group of about 115 islands which lie 1600km (990mi) off the coast of east Africa. The three central islands - Mahé, Praslin and La Digue - are granite, while the outlying islands are coral atolls. Unlike most similar islands, the Seychelles are not volcanic - they seem to be the peaks of a huge underwater plateau which fell off the edge of India about 65 million years ago.

The Seychelles are a haven for wildlife, particularly birds and tropical fish. The islands are rich in vegetation, but most of it is either coconut palms or casuarinas. There's virgin forest on the highlands of Malé and Silhouette, and in the Vallée de Mai on Praslin, where you'll find the extremely rare giant coco de mer palm. In these high, remote areas you might also find the insect-eating pitcher plant, as well as a veritable bouquet of orchids, bouganvilleas, hibiscuses, gardenias and frangipani.

The islands aren't exactly swarming with furry or scaly wildlife: you might spot skinks, flying foxes and geckoes. Insects are far more common, and the giant rhinoceros beetle almost qualifies for reptile status anyway. What you'll really notice is the profusion of birds. The islands are isolated and were settled late, so many species exist here that you'll find nowhere else. If you're interested in birds, pay a visit to Bird, Cousin, Aride or Frégate Islands, which are bird sanctuaries.

The Seychelles has four marine national parks, and more than 150 species of tropical reef fish have been identified. Snorkel off any reef-protected shore here and you'll get an eyeful of fish and coral. Dolphin and porpoise are common between the islands, shark and barracuda less so, although the Seychelles are renowned for their game fishing. French and English settlers did a pretty good job of slaughtering the Seychelles' endemic giant tortoises, but there is a free-roaming colony on Curieuse, and Cousin and Bird Island reserves are fighting it out for the title of 'home to the world's largest tortoise'.

The Seychelles' seasons are defined by the beginning and end of the south-east trade winds, which usually blow from May to October. For the rest of the year, the islands are swept by the monsoons, which bring the rain, especially in January. Mahé and Silhouette get the most rain. January is the wettest month, July and August the driest, while every month the temperature fluctuates between 24°C (75°F) and 31°C (88°F) and the humidity sweats at around 80%.

The Seychelles is not a budget destination. Accommodation is regulated by the tourist board; camping is forbidden and prices, availability and the standard of accommodation are fixed. If you keep to the less expensive guesthouses, avoid watersports and eat lean, you might be able to get by on US$55 a day. If you've come all this way, though, you probably want to induldge at least a little - a budget of US$100 a day is more realistic if you want to do some diving, eat the country's fabulous seafood and maybe stay in the occasional mid-range hotel. If you've got money to burn, the Seychelles is a great place to do it. If you are thinking of staying in the fancier hotels, consider a package tour, which will work out a fair bit cheaper.

You'll get a better rate for travellers cheques than for cash. No restrictions apply on taking rupees in or out of the country, but you'll get a much better rate in the Seychelles than you will anywhere else. Victoria is well endowed with banks, and in villages where they're further apart you can usually change money at the bigger hotels (though the rate probably won't be the best).

Tipping is welcomed but not obligatory. A 10% service charge is added to your bill in hotels and restaurants. In general, there's a relaxed approach to bargaining. You might be able to get a discount on your car rental, but prices in shops are seldom negotiable. Markets are more open to a bit of friendly haggling.

You should plan your trip to the Seychelles around what you want to do. Windsurfing and sailing are best at the start and end of the trade winds, usually around May and October. Some beaches are better during the monosoon season, others during the trade winds. Diving is best in March, April, May, September, October and November. Room rates are highest and everything is busiest in December, January, July and August.