Both islands grew out of volcanoes, and they have central, volcanic highlands from which numerous fast flowing streams barrel down to the sea. They are slightly larger in area than New York City, and bask under the sun in the Bight of Biafra, just north of the equator. The rainforests were thick on both islands until the Portuguese arrived and established plantations of sugar and cocoa, but dense stands of native bush still survive. Over 80% of the population lives on the island of São Tomé, and more than 75% of that is still forested. The flora and fauna are similar to that on mainland Equatorial Guinea, although there are several endemic species. Both islands are subject to drought and soil erosion owing to loss of forest cover.

The climate is equatorial. The driest and coolest months are from June to September, when temperatures hover around 29°C (82°F). The wettest month is March, when the rain beats down monotonously and temperatures rise to around 30°C (86°F). Several microclimates exist, particularly on São Tomé island, where the north has a drier, savannah-like climate and the south receives much more rain, even during the dry season.

A stay on São Tomé & Príncipe is inexpensive, and, apart from a few nightclubs and the theatre, there's little to spend your money on. Budget travellers will get by in reasonable comfort for US$25 a day, and there's little reason to spend much more than US$60 if you want to stay in mid-range hotels. If you want to stay at the top end of town, go to nightclubs every night and throw in a few game-fishing trips, be prepared to spend about US$200 a day.

Don't exchange much money into dobra at first, because most hotels and taxi drivers insist on payment in US dollars or CFA. Restaurants, on the other hand, want dobra. Many people will exchange money on the black market, at the Feira do Ponto close to the Conceição Church. You can also change money at licensed shops such as the Tropical in Rua da Moçambique, and Tyk-Tak in Rua Morta. The only place where you can change travellers cheques is the Banco Internacional de São Tomé e Príncipe (BISTP) on the Praça de Independência.

In the more upmarket restaurants you should tip about 10% to 15% of the bill. Bargaining is normal in the markets, and even in some places to stay, but not, of course, in top-end hotels.

It's best to go between June and September. The rest of the year is muggy and hot - you'll be swimming in rain and your own sweat.