Spectacularly diverse, Morocco combines sand, sea and snow in a way that Club Med developers could only dream about. The southern coast stretches to the edge of the Western Sahara while to the north the bulk of Morocco's population fills the foothills of the often snow-capped Atlas Mountains. The mountains provide a buffer against the country's dangerously rowdy eastern neighbour, Algeria.

Between the mountains and Morocco's Atlantic coast are plateaus and plains which are fertile and well-watered. In the extreme south, at the edge of the Anti-Atlas, the gorges, like the rivers that flow at their bases, gradually peter out into the endless sand and stony wastes of the vast Sahara.

The 'coolest of the hottest countries', Morocco's colder months are most un-African. In the higher regions in particular, winter conditions can be positively Arctic. In summer, the mountains are hot during the day and cool at night. The rainy season between November and April is something of a misnomer, bringing only occasional light rain.

Reckon on about US$40-50 per day if you want to travel in comfort. Budget travellers prepared to camp or stay in hostels could happily survive on about US$15-20 a day. Expect to pay dearly for the pleasure of beer (around US$3) and other heady imports. Getting around is relatively cheap and there are plenty of options, one of the cheapest (and most rewarding) is cycling.

There's a wide range of banks available for changing money and cashing travellers' cheques and credit cards. Generally, it's quick and easy with rates varying little from bank to bank. Probably the best of the banks is the Banque Marocaine du Commerce Extérieur (BMCE). Cash advances on credit cards and ATM carry a charge of about 1.5%.

Tipping is expected in the fancier eateries. Around 10-15% of your bill is usual. A dirham or two should suffice at the more humble restaurants and cafes. A whole range of other services, some of which you may not notice or want, are also performed with the aim of pocketing a few dirhams. Remember that for many porters, guides, bus stop spruikers (a particularly pesky species of hustler endemic to Tangier) and the like, this is how they make a living. On the other hand, aggressive hustling shouldn't be rewarded.

On the coast the weather is tourist-friendly pretty much all year round, although winter can bring cool and wet conditions in the north. In the lowlands, the cooler months from October to April are popular among visitors. This time of year is pleasantly warm to hot (around 30°C) during the day and cool to cold (around 15°C) at night. Winter in the higher regions demands some serious insulation. If you're heading into the hills, the ski season usually lasts from December to March. For most trekking trips you should book in the high season (June 15 to September 15) or you may find areas full.