In the middle of Mediterranean North Africa, Libya is surrounded by Chad and Niger to the south, Egypt and the Sudan to the east and Algeria and Tunisia to the west. A bit smaller than the US state of Alaska and more than three times the size of France, the country clocks in as the fourth largest country in Africa. Within its boundaries, Libya is divided into three main regions: Tripolitania covers the north-western corner of the country, the Fezzan everything south of Tripolitania, and Cyrenaica the entire eastern half. Each of these divisions is further subdivided by several large municipalities.

Only a narrow coastal strip receives enough rainfall to be suitable for agriculture, and it's here that you'll find the capital city, Tripoli, as well as 90% of the population. North-eastern Libya, the Jebel Akhdar area (also known as the Green Mountains), is the most verdant and arguably the most beautiful part of the country. Its interior, on the other hand, is largely uninhabited desert peppered with small oasis communities. In the extreme south are the Tibesti and Tassili mountains of the central Sahara, while the Calanscio Sand Sea, a vast area of shifting sand dunes, lies in the east near the Egyptian border. The Murzuk and Ubari sand seas lie in the west.

There are no permanent rivers in Libya, only

Inland, the only vegetation is largely confined to the oases, where the date palm reigns supreme, along with figs and oleander. Outside the oases, the acacia tree can sometimes be found providing the only shade in the middle of a wilderness. On the coast, the usual array of Mediterranean flora thrives, including large areas of olive and citrus cultivation.

A wonderful variety of bird life can be seen all over Libya, as it lies on the migratory route of many species. In the desert regions, the camel is the most common animal that visitors will come across, but there are still a few herds of gazelle in remote areas, and the nocturnal fennec (a small, big-eared fox) can be seen from time to time. Lizards, snakes (some of which are poisonous) and scorpions are also quite common.

Libya's climate is influenced by the massive expanse of desert to the south and by the Mediterranean Sea to the north. The coastal regions enjoy moderate temperatures, averaging 30°C (86°F) in summer and 8°C (46°F) in winter in Tripoli. Some 380mm (15in) of rain falls mainly in winter. Semi-arid conditions predominate in the central plains, while the southern deserts are subject to frequent periods of drought. A hot, dry, sand-laden wind called the

Libya is an expensive destination by Middle Eastern standards, if ony because visas are only issued to visitors travelling as part of an organised tour. Costs of tours vary widely between companies and can range from those using basic hostels to those using five-star hotels.

Libya does not accept credit cards, and travellers' cheques are all but impossible to cash. Carrying cash is the only realistic option, and the favoured currency is the US dollar. Pounds sterling and euro are also acceptable. The main banks and larger hotels provide money-changing facilities; their rates are virtually identical.

Contrary to practices in the rest of North Africa, haggling over prices in the souqs is a no no. Tipping is not expected, though a service charge is sometimes added to hotel and restaurant bills.

The best time to visit Libya is between November and March, when daytime temperatures are relatively mellow...for a desert country. Conversely, if you drop by between April and October, don't be surprised to find the mercury pushing 38°C (100°F) on a regular basis. The coastal atmosphere is generally humid (hovering around 55% in the afternoons year round), while inland the deserts are often as dry as dust. You should avoid travel to Libya in late spring (May through June) and early fall (October), when the country's subject to the massive