Ethiopia sits landlocked on the eastern side of the continent, the Horn of Africa. To its west is Sudan, to the north Eritrea, to the east the tiny country of Djibouti and Somalia, which also stretches around the southern border, and to the south Kenya. Ethiopia covers about 1,127,000 sq km (439,530 sq mi), and is dominated by a high central plateau, cut by deep gorges including the Great Rift Valley. Only around 12% of Ethiopia is used for agriculture - mainly around the flood plains of the Blue Nile, in the west of the country, and in the highlands - and most of this is subsistence growing.

Ethiopia's forests are declining alarmingly. Because of the demands for fuel, construction and fencing, at least 77% of the country's tree cover has been cut down in the last 25 years. In the late 19th century, Australian eucalypts were introduced to reverse the deforestation trend, but the fast-growing plants have actually made things worse - local animals don't like them, and nothing grows around their roots, so eucalypt forests are highly prone to soil erosion. Ethiopian wildlife isn't doing too well either, so if you're after a safari you'll be better off elsewhere in Africa. There are plenty of antelope species and a couple of monkey and baboon species. But if its birds you're after, you've come to the right place - there are more than 20 endemic species in the country, and you won't have to travel far afield to find them.

Although Ethiopia is relatively close to the equator, the central plateau has a temperate climate, with an average annual temperature of 16°C (60°F). Only in the east, towards the Red Sea, and west, near Sudan, does it get very hot. The

If you want to live like a local, Ethiopia goes very easy on the wallet. If you're staying in small hotels, eating street food and travelling by bus, you can get by on about US$12 a day. Doubling that budget will allow you to stay in slightly classier hotels and eat in restaurants, but you'll still be restricted to bus travel. If you're willing to pay around US$70 a day you can stay in quite upmarket hotels, jet between towns, eat whatever you want and hire a guide.

US dollars travellers' cheques should do the trick just about anywhere in Ethiopia, although it's sensible to keep a bit of cash on hand to cover you in really out-of-the-way places. There's really no point taking a credit card with you.

If you use a guide while visiting one of Ethiopia's historic sites, they'll expect a tip - about US$1 an hour seems to be the going rate. Tips aren't expected in restaurants, but they will be happily received. Bargaining with taxi drivers and souvenir-sellers for a better price is quite acceptable.

Ethiopia is pretty pleasant all year round, with temperatures in Addis Ababa averaging around 20°C (68°F) no matter what season it is. Fairly heavy rain falls in the middle of the year, so it's probably best to avoid June and July.