There are flights between Tallinn and Amsterdam, Copenhagen, Helsinki, Kiev, London, Minsk and Stockholm. Tallinn airport is 3km (2mi) south-east of the city centre. There are no departure taxes when leaving Estonia.

The bus is the cheapest mode of transport to and from Estonia, and Eurolines links Tallinn with Western and Scandinavian Europe. While public buses get priority over private vehicles at border crossings, Estonian border guards take perverse pleasure in not only stamping every Western passport but also inviting travellers to their offices so they can key your passport data into their computers.

The daily Balti Ekspress is a good option for train buffs; it runs between Tallinn and Warsaw. The number of ferries servicing the region has mushroomed since 1990, enabling travellers to sail directly between Estonia and Finland, Sweden or Germany. A fleet of varied shapes and sizes now ferries 2 million passengers a year across the Gulf of Finland between Helsinki and Tallinn.

Driving is the best means of getting around Estonia. The roads are good, traffic is light and nothing's very far from anything else. There are major rental agencies in Tallinn. You'll need a passport and either an International Driving Permit or, if a European citizen, a regular licence. Drive on the right.

If you don't mind taking your time to get around, Estonia has good bus and train services. Since the terrain is flat, bicycling is another excellent way to see the countryside, at least in summer. The islands are especially good for cycling.

Domestic air travel is expensive. Baltic Aeroservis links Tallinn with the island destinations of Kuressaare and Kärdla, while charter flights operate between Tartu and Tallinn.

You can get around the larger towns and cities via a variety of trams and buses, although both get frighteningly crowded. Taxis are plentiful and cheap.