The only way to enter Sri Lanka is by flying. Colombo is the international gateway for direct flights from Europe, Asia, Australia and the Middle East. There are cheap flights available between Colombo and Madras, Trichy, Trivandrum and Bombay. Departure tax is US$10.

There are no domestic passenger flights in Sri Lanka, which leaves buses and trains as the dominant modes of transport. Buses, ranging from smoke-spewing monsters to modern private coaches, are cheap, plentiful and always overcrowded. Train travel, while slower, is infinitely more comfortable. Motorbike and self-drive car hire are becoming increasingly popular, though motorists often run an obstacle race around cows and dogs - many of the latter significantly three-legged. It's common to rent a car with a driver for a day-trip or a few days' tour of the island; prices are reasonable if you're with a few friends. Local transport consists of buses, taxis and auto-rickshaws. Use your nonce and agree a fare beforehand.