With little to get angry about in Scandinavia's cosiest community, post-Viking Danes have had to file down their horns and make their mark in more civilised fashion. The Danes have responded by inventing Lego toys, being the European Union's cagiest member, and producing some talented upstart soccer players. Brand recognition persists due to the Danes baking pastries so delicious that the addiction of the entire gap-toothed world is assured.

Denmark's capital, the toe-tapping toy-town of Copenhagen, is an urban mosh pit of the most fragrant persuasion. Its flannels are always laundered, its grunge never more lank than just the other side of swank, and its Jensens, Hansens and Nielsens are a cacophany of