A rich and bubbling vat of beer, chocolate, oil paint and bureaucrats, Belgium gives off the heady pong of the bourgeoisie. But stir the pot a little and you'll find an 'artificial state' roughly made up of two parts Germanic Flemings to one part Celtic-Latin Walloons. Divided by pride first and language second, the country's binding agents are a pervasive sense of family and an indomitable entrepreneurial spirit. And if Belgium's spotlight on the European stage is a little dim, it's only because its people are rarely boastful. This country has more history, art, food and architecture per square centimetre than many of its bigger, louder neighbours.