 | OFF the BEATEN TRACK | | | Colonia Tovar
Lost amid the rolling forests of the Cordillera de la Costa, some 60km (37mi) west of Caracas, is the unusual mountain town of Colonia Tovar. Founded in 1843 by a group of German settlers, the town effectively shielded itself from any outside contact for almost a century: A lack of roads restricted access, and rigid social mores meant that the inhabitants remained exclusively tied to their own culture (marriage, for instance, was prohibited unless to another member of the colony). Only in the 1940s was the Spanish language introduced; a serviceable road wasn't built until 1963. Today, Colonia Tovar is a lovely town of produce markets and arts-and-craft stores and is still unmistakably German. Much of the original architecture remains, and foods, such as bread and sausage, continue to be made according to hoary German recipes. | | | Roraima
Straddling the borders of Venezuela, Guyana and Brazil is a 280 sq km (109 sq mi) plateau called Roraima that has become increasingly popular with travelers interested in trekking or botany. The roundtrip hike takes five days, and by custom you will be required to hire a local guide for the last two. Though the trek involves discomforting amounts of rain, the climb is fascinating and the moonscape scenery at the top of the mesa is a science-fiction dream of blackened rock, pink beaches and bewildering plant life. | | | Salto Aponguao
One of the most impressive and photogenic waterfalls in La Gran Sabana is Salto Aponguao. However, it's rather difficult to reach unless you're prepared to expend a little time and energy. One way to see it is to leave the highway, then travel about 40km (25mi) on an unpaved road before coming to the Indian hamlet of Iboribó. The next step is to pay one of the locals to take you by curiara (dugout canoe) across the Río Aponguao, from where it's a half-hour trek to the falls. Another possibility is to arrange for a boat to take you directly there, then return on foot. Either way, the 105m (344ft) Salto is spectacular. A well-marked path leads to the foot of the falls, where you can bathe and swim in one of the natural pools. And nearby is an idyllic camping spot with excellent views of both the falls and the surrounding countryside. |
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