Nomuka has been historically important to passing vessels because of its fresh water, but it is best recognised today by its brackish lake, which occupies most of the hilly interior. The island is ideal for hiking, but the villagers have a reputation for being a little more aloof than is the norm in the Friendly Islands. About 30km (18.5mi) west of Nomuka lies the volcanic island/pile of rocks Fonuafo'ou, which throughout its turbulent history has been measured at 2km (1.2mi) long and anywhere between 0m and 320m (1050ft) above sea level. By 1949, the island had collapsed and disappeared under the action of the waves. You may only see a few steam vents, or be treated to its more serious attempt to create dry land. Nomuka, in the Ha'apai Group, is not on any inter-island ferry schedule, but ferries do occasionally stop there, or you could take a seaplane from Tongatapu and land on the lake.

Lifuka is composed nearly entirely of agricultural plantations surrounded by fantastic beaches. Swim and snorkel off the western shore, and check out the wild weather on the eastern shore as the coast is buffeted by waves. The Olovehi Tomb lies at the southern end of the island, and it was constructed in the late 18th century for Nanasipau'u, sister of the reigning king. Many unfortunate commoners copped it in the neck here, to serve the princess in her (and their imminent) afterlife. Just south of the tomb is the 'Ahau Bathing Well, which in traditional Tongan society was owned by the chief. A little further south of that is the site where 3000 year old Lapita pottery has been excavated.You can reach Lifuka by air from Tongatapu and Vava'u, or by boat that calls in on the Vava'u-Tongatapu run.

Many Tongans from the more southerly islands know more about New Zealand or England than the Niuas, the farthest flung of Tonga's island groups. Tradition remains strong on the three islands, and the trip up is well worth it for the traveller, if not for the hypnotically beautiful beaches then for the friendly people who see so few tourists. You can climb the perfect volcanic cone of Tafahi, hike around the barren lava flows, swim in the beautiful Vai Lahi Lake on Niuafo'ou, and swim in the western waterways. Hihio is the sleepy capital of Niuatoputapu, and a plane from Tongatapu or Vava'u is the best way to get there. You must fly to Niuafo'ou as it has no safe anchorage, (from Tongatapu via Vava'u). You can reach Tafahi by boat from Niuatoputapu.

The large, placid lagoon formed by Hunga and the neighbouring islands of Kalau and Fofoa look like an enormous volcanic lake, but it makes an ideal anchorage for cruising yachts. Cliffs on Hunga make an ideal viewing point for passing humpback whales. Foe'ata, just south of Hunga, has brilliant white sand beaches and fantastic snorkelling. Mariner's Cave is worth a look on the island of Nuapapu. Will Mariner was a boy working on the privateer Port-au-Prince, which islanders ransacked in 1806. Most of the pirates were massacred, but Mariner was spared and taken under the wing of the the reigning chief of Ha'apai for the next four years. On Kapa, the beautiful Swallows' Cave is inhabited by hundreds of not swallows but swiftlets, which nest in its dim upper reaches. Despite the swiftlet droppings, visibility in the cave's underwater floor is an impressive 50m (164ft). You reach the Vava'u group by ferry from Tongatapu or plane from Tongatapu, Ha'apai or Fiji. Once you hit the main island, get around by local charter, or, if you're a yachtie, under the power of your own spinnaker.