|OFF the BEATEN TRACK|
The hills around the mountain of Fulufjället, west of Särna, feed Njupeskär, Sweden's tallest waterfall at 100m (328ft). The drive from Särna towards the Norwegian border is fantastic, passing through some rugged and beautiful country on its way to the nature reserve. About 30km (19mi) from Särna the road turns into a mountain trail and proceeds about 2km (1mi) to the falls at the edge of the ancient forest. For some extra guidance, maps are available at the tourist office at Särna.
The village of Jokkmokk (Dálvaddis in Samish), just north of the Arctic Circle, started as a Sami market and mission, and is now a centre of revitalised Sami culture. The Sami winter fair takes place the first three days from the first Thursday in February, when you can shop seriously for handicrafts (Sámi duodji) worked in the traditional bold blue, red and yellow. There's a museum here with excellent information on the mountainous interior, should you be thinking of plunging further north, and a restaurant which does a nice line in reindeer sandwiches.Jokkmokk is a good place to come and see the midnight sun, but don't let your enthusiasm outdo your eyesight: the sun is always dangerous to look at. Summer visitors who are particularly brave pretend to enjoy a bracing dip in the river; the more sensible stick to dangling trout lines in Jokkmokk's central lake. Jokkmokk is relatively isolated, and you should book accommodation well in advance if arriving at winter fair time. Public transport access is via the Inlandsbanan rail connection: get off at nearby Malmbanan and take the bus.
Sarek National Park
The magical landscape of Sarek National Park covers an area of 2000 sq km (780 sq mi). It comprises 100 glaciers and countless peaks, a handful of which are over 2000m (6560ft) high. This is beautiful yet demanding country, only for the tough and experienced (who will need to do their homework thoroughly). Perhaps the best views are over the lake and delta of Laiture on the Rapa älv, not far from the eastern boundary of the park. There are no huts and few bridges, but the route is popular with experienced hikers, who take a week or more to get in and out. The most common entry point is from the south from Kvikkjokk Fjällstation, which is serviced by bus from Jokkmokk.
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