Cerro Verde national park has two incredible views: The first is the still steaming and impressive Volcán Izalco; and the second is of the blue volcanic crater lake Lago de Coatepeque on the eastern slope of the Volcán de Santa Ana, the highest volcano in El Salvador. Volcán Izalco 200 years ago was nothing but a hole in the earth from which columns of black sulfuric smoke would rise. Then a cone began to form and within a short time it grew to is present size of 1910m (6265ft). Izalco continued to erupt into this century, sending out smoke, boulders and flames that became such an impressive sight by night or day it earned the reputation as 'the lighthouse of the Pacific.' Though still classified as active, Izalco hasn't been heard from since 1966. A marked path leads to the top, about a 3-hour hike.Cerro Verde is a 2-hour drive south of Santa Ana and is best reached by bus. If coming from San Salvador, Santa Ana is 63km (39mi) northwest, and a bus trip takes about 90 minutes.

The name Ilobasco is Nahua for 'place of many corn fields,' though today it's a town known for ceramics rather than cereals. It's especially famous for its sorpresas (surprises), tiny, detailed scenes and figures enclosed in egg-shaped shells about the size of a walnut. The scenes often depict innocuous events in daily village life, though one Ilobasco artist cheekily added a new dimension by enclosing a naked couple in the throes of sexual passion. The local priest attempted to confiscate these sinful sorpresas but they still sell, albeit tightly wrapped in paper. A string of artesanía shops on the main drag sells the local ceramics.Ilobasco is 54km (33mi) northeast of San Salvador and is well served by bus.

Where the Río Lempa meets the Pacific Ocean, mangroves flourish, egrets pose and fish frequently break the river's surface. Despite El Salvador's poor environmental record, the area known as Isla Montecristo is still undeveloped and pristine. Getting to this spot takes some planning, but you'll be rewarded by the natural scenery and wildlife, and welcomed by the small community who live here. Local families provide food and lodging in their homes and will take you on boat tours of the river and mangroves. Lodging is very rudimentary; it's a good idea to bring some food to share around. Pigs, chickens, dogs and tons of kids add to the atmosphere.Isla Montecristo is about 80km (50mi) southeast of San Salvador. The bus journey involves multiple changes (usually at Zacatecoluca or San Nicolás Lempa). When you reach the coast, you'll need to get familiar with a paddle to reach the island by dugout canoe.

The districts of Chalatenango and Morazán were the principal areas of warfare between the government army and the FMLN guerrillas. One of the many tactics used by the military was called tierra arrasada (scorched land), which basically involved burning crops and slaughtering cattle. The people who fled the area during the war have now returned, and a visit here provides a fascinating opportunity to witness the process of reconstruction. Buildings (and residents) bear the scars of battles, and land mines are an unpleasant feature of what is otherwise the gentlest scenery in the country.The village of La Palma, held by the FMLN during the war, is known for its wooden handicrafts, flowering plants, storming rivers and beautiful mountain scenery. It's 84km (52mi) north of San Salvador, a 4 hour ride by bus. Perquín was the FMLN headquarters and now houses the poignant Museo de la Revolucíon Salvadoreña. The museum charts the causes and progress of the war with photos, posters, weapons and the histories of those who died in action. Weapons range from hi-tech hardware to homemade bombs.Perquín is three hours north by bus from San Miguel. There's rarely anywhere to stay in the smaller villages, though you may be able to stay overnight in a family home if you ask around. If there are Western volunteers in the area, they're normally happy to help. Food is basic and public transport can be infrequent.