Gorom-Gorom, in the northeast of Burkina Faso, is a typical Sahelian town, with its edges smudged into a sea of sand dunes and wide windswept spaces. This is where civilisation runs out of puff. From here on in it's all lonely desert dunes and whistling silences. The accommodation in Gorom-Gorom is traditional Sudanese style, so it's easy to immerse yourself in the ambience of Sahelian life. The largely nomadic population are mainly Tuaregs (or 'blue men of the desert'), Peuls, Maures, and Songhaïs.The Gorom market is unquestionably the most colourful and interesting in Burkina Faso, if not the Sahel, and may well be the country's largest. The mixing and melding of the different Sahelian and Saharian ethnic groups make it a sight worth seeing. There's Tuareg herders in indigo robes; Peul herders and Songhaï farmers in bright yellow and red turbans; Peul women with brightly couloured boubous (robes), intricately braided, beaded, and bejewelled hairdos, and large silver and gold hooped earrings. The men wear richly decorated leather belts and elaborate silver swords. And that's without even beginning to describe the intriguing desert food and desert crafts for sale.Gorom-Gorom is about 290km (180mi) north east of Ouagadougou and can be reached by bus or bushtaxi/minibus.

If you're on your way to Dogon country in Mali, make a pit stop at Ouahigouya in the north. It's another typical Burkina Faso town; a laid-back, spread out place that's easy to get around during the day, and jumping at night.If you're in the area after Ramadan, head for Ramatouyale, 25km (15mi) east of Ouahigouya, for the pilgrimage to the local mosque that marks the end of the fasting period. In Ouahigouya you'll also find the Maison du Naba Kango, home of the head nob of the Yatengo kingdom. The Yatengo were chief rivals of the Mossi back in the good old precolonial days, and although the traditional mud compound appears modest by western standards, don't be fooled. It still has enough room for the naba's 30 or so wives, several granaries, and, the simply must-have accessory for every self-respecting naba, a 'fetish' room. No one, not even the naba's children, knows what's in the fetish room. Travellers can do a meet-and-greet with the naba, as long as they come bearing gifts. Note that money is considered a gift.Ouahigouya is about 160km (99mi) from Ouagadougou. Bush taxis, cars, and mini buses leave from main depots at regular intervals.

The Resérve de Nazinga, south of Ouagadougou, near Pô and the Ghanian border, is a game park run by Canadian environmentalists. Today, Burkina Faso is estimated to have the largest elephant population of West Africa, due in large part to the policies of the Nazinga game reserve. Since 1979, the workers on the reserve have aimed for a balance between the needs of the human population, and the necessity to protect the elephants from ivory hunters and other human predators. The policies are a mixture of limited game cropping, local employment, promotion of ecotourism and anti-poaching measures. All visitors must travel with a guide and, although you can get out and walk around, the elephants have occasionally shown themselves to be thorough ingrates by charging the unsuspecting ambler.The Ranch is pretty much in Woop-Woop, and not many people get there without a 4WD. If you can't drive your own vehicle out there, see if you can find a group of tourists driving in that direction, and compliment them on their choice of cars. Outright grovelling and begging for a lift is also a good option. The other way to do it is through the Ministry of Tourism in Ouagadougou, who operate one-day tours.If you're travelling under your own steam, try taking a bushtaxi or minibus from Ouagadougou to Pô and then do your grovelling and begging to get that extra 50km (30mi) to the Resérve de Nazinga. Ouagadougou to Pô is about 140km (87mi).

If you're out and about around the Resérve de Nazinga, it might be worth doing a side trip to Tiébélé. It's about 40km (25mi) due east of Pô, via a dirt track, and is in the middle of Gourounsi country. The Gourounsi traditional house is a fortress-like building, minus windows, and covered in colourful geometric patterns of red, black and white. The houses are painstakingly painted by the Gourounsi women with guinea fowl feathers.Getting to Tiébélé is well nigh impossible without your own transport. It's 140km (87mi) due south from Ouagadougou, and is reached by 4WD.