If the strip-mall chintz of small-town Arizona leaves you dry, drop in on Flagstaff, a cultural oasis in an otherwise arid landscape. The historic downtown area, harking back to the town's early days as a railroad whistle stop, comes as a welcome relief from the region's dusty motels and truckstop diners. In this neighborhood, antique inns sidle up against vegetarian cafes and you're more likely to hear strains of a local jazz combo than any rumble of RV traffic. And as the novelty of nontouristy downtown wears thin, there's always a visit to the Lowell Observatory, where in 1930 the planet Pluto was discovered, or a stroll through the 200 blissfully green acres (80ha) of the local arboretum. Flagstaff is also the region's gateway city to the Grand Canyon and - nostalgic Nat 'King' Cole fans take note - a stop along historic Route 66.From Phoenix, you can drive north to Flagstaff in under three hours along I-17. The cities are also connected by daily flights and buses. From Flagstaff, the southern rim of the Grand Canyon is more than 100 miles (160km) distant, which makes daytrips to the canyon from Phoenix impractical.

The Grand Falls give an insight into how water shapes the geography of the Southwest. The Little Colorado River is a minor tributary of the Colorado and, like many Arizonan rivers, is nearly dry for much of the year. During spring runoff, however, the river swells and the Grand Falls come into being. The 185ft (55m) drop is impressive, with muddy brown spray giving the falls their local nickname of 'Chocolate Falls.' The best time for viewing is March and April, although earlier in the year can be good if it's been an especially wet winter. Occasional summer storms also fill the falls.The falls are on the enormous Navajo Indian Reservation, the largest reservation in the US, which covers about 25,000 sq miles (64,750 sq km) in northwestern Arizona and parts of New Mexico and Utah. From Phoenix, take I-17 north to Flagstaff, then I-40 east for 14 miles (23km) to the Winona exit.

Nestled among crimson sandstone formations at the southern end of Oak Creek Canyon, Sedona enjoys one of the prettiest locations in Arizona. In the 1960s and '70s, its surroundings began attracting retirees, artists and tourists in large numbers, but it wasn't until around 1980, when New Agers began touting Sedona's vortexes - points where the earth's energy is focused - that the free birds really started flocking in.Today, Sedona is the foremost New Age center in the Southwest and one of the most 'important' anywhere. Sedona's New Age Information Center offers lectures, seminars, psychic readings, massage healings and vortex information. Likewise, the Healing Center of Arizona offers anything from an hour in a sauna to several days of holistic healing, reasonably priced vegetarian meals and as much acupressure, massage, yoga, nutrition counseling, herbology, tai chi, meditation and psychic channeling as you can stand. Various other New Age outfits in town - look for the word 'crystal' in their names - distribute free maps showing the vortex sites and sell books, gems and other New Age paraphernalia.Sedona is around 100 miles (160km) north of Phoenix along I-17 and is served by bus and a shuttle from Phoenix Airport. Flagstaff is 28 miles (45km) north of Sedona along Hwy 89A.