At the southern end of the Kathmandu Valley, in a dark, somewhat spooky location, stands the temple of Dakshinkali. The temple is dedicated to the six-armed goddess Kali, Shiva's consort in her most sanguinary incarnation. Twice a week, Nepalese visitors journey here to satisfy her bloodlust. They bring buffaloes, chickens, ducks, goats, sheep and pigs, which are matter-of-factly despatched by having their throats slit or heads lopped off. These animals, some still writhing, are then dragged to a nearby stream where they are butchered for a feast at a later date. The blood runs freely every Saturday and especially during the October festival of Dasain when the image of Kali is literally bathed in the stuff.Some 20km (12mi) from the city centre, Dakshinkali is just a crowded bus trip away (albeit only on the important days of sacrifice, Tuesdays and Saturdays). It's also an exhilarating mountain bike trip to the temple; 'exhilarating' in this context meaning lots of steep hills with terrific views as the ultimate pay-off.

South-west of Kathmandu, midway between the capital and Hetauda, Daman is situated 2322m (7616ft) above sea level. It claims to have the most spectacular outlook on the Himalaya - an unimpeded panorama of snowcaps from Dhaulagiri to Mt Everest. If the mountains are in cloud when you arrive, you can stay at the ramshackle viewing tower and catch the peaks in the morning. If it's spring, check out the rhododendron forest on the southern side of the village. There are also great views over the Terai to India from here.Daman is three hours by car or four hours by bus from Kathmandu. Unfortunately, there is only one bus a day in each direction. If you're feeling adventurous, this is one of the most spectacular and gruelling mountain-bike routes in the world.

The walled Nagarjun forest reserve, north-west of Kathmandu, is filled with live pheasant, deer and other animals. This is one of the last significant areas of untouched forest in the Kathmandu Valley. Nearby is a popular Buddhist pilgrimage site, a number of limestone caves and a small lookout with commanding views over the countryside. The main entrance to the reserve is a 20-minute bicycle ride from Thamel; the walking trails begin just inside the gate.