About 750km north of Addis Ababa, Gondar was the capital of Ethiopia from its foundation by Emperor Fasilidas in 1632 until 1886. The piazza - a grandiose name for an unremarkable small square - is the heart of the modern town. It's look a worth inside the 76,000 sq m Royal Enclosure for a glimpse of the castle built in 1640. Your ticket also admits you to the royal Bath of Fasilldas, about 2km out of town on the Bahar Dar road.Don't be persuaded to visit the 'Falasha village,' about 7km out of town; there's only one Falasha left after the mass emigration to Israel - and even her credentials are dubious.

People come to Lalibela to see its amazing 12th-century rock churches, hewn straight out of the bedrock. The city is named after the 12th-century King Lalibela, who established his capital there after God came to him in a dream and told him to. All 11 rock churches were built within a century, apparently with the help of angels who popped in during the night and did a bit of divine stonemasonry. The churches have been kept alive by generations of priests who guard their treasures of ornamented crosses, illuminated bibles and illustrated manuscripts. You'll be hassled by potential guides the whole time you're here; if you want to escape, take a wander up to the Asheton Maryam Monastery.There are quite a few hotels in Lalibela, and plenty of places to eat, though most only have Amharic menus. You can fly to Lalibela from Addis Ababa or Gondar, or take the bus from Addis Ababa.

This park is excellent for trekking, with spectacular views and a large variety of wildlife, including baboons, ibex, Simien fox and birds of prey such as the rare lammergeyer, a huge vulture. The park is made up of a rocky massif which slopes down to grasslands - the massif is cut by streams and gorges. Treks run from three to ten days, and you can either slog it out on foot or let a mule do the walking for you. The treks build up to an ascent of Africa's fourth highest peak, Ras Dashen. Treks start at Debark, which is about 100km (60mi) north of Gondar - you can get between the two by bus.