Guyana's capital and only large city lies on the east bank at the mouth of the Demerrara River. Georgetown had a miserable beginning, but developed into an attractive colonial city distinguished by gracious colonial architecture. Today, parts of the city, notably the central area and the botanic and zoological gardens are well-maintained, but the rest of the city is weathered and dilapidated. A profusion of flowering trees lend it the somewhat optimistic name 'Garden City of the Caribbean', despite its location on the Atlantic coast. A long sea wall protects the city from flooding; locals pass their time there swimming, sunbathing and strolling arm-in-arm.Most of the sights are on or near Main St, including the Gothic-style St George's Cathedral, reputedly the world's tallest wooden cathedral, and the neoclassic Parliament Building, built in 1833. Much of the city center is dwarfed by the Stabroek Market, an imposing cast-iron building with a striking clocktower. Good value also are the idiosyncratic Museum of Guyana, which has exhibitions of excellent Guyanese paintings and sculpture, and the Botanical Gardens & Zoo, a beautifully laid out enclosure of Victorian bridges, pavilions, palms and lily ponds.Budget accommodation, cheap food joints, jazz bars, clubs and discos are all close to Main St.

Guyana's number one attraction ranks alongside the Niagara, Victoria and Iguazú falls in power and majesty - with the added bonus of being surrounded by virgin forest. Its waters drop 250 precipitous meters (820ft) from a sandstone tableland and, depending on the season, are nearly 100m (328ft) wide. Its isolated location means wildlife thrives in the area, but it also requires determination to reach. Small planes fly to the falls from Georgetown but seats can be difficult to secure. Otherwise, it's a rugged two-day walk with a guide from Bartica (see Off the Beaten Track). Orinduik Falls, southwest of here, on the Brazilian border, is another popular destination.