The large volcano at the center of Parque Nacional Volcán Masaya National Park , which still steams and belches, is surrounded by smaller volcanoes and thermal springs. Legends say that the Indians used to throw young women into the boiling lava to appease Chaciutique, the goddess of fire. The Spanish believed it was the entrance to hell, inhabited by devils. Entrance to the park is only 14 miles (23km) southeast of Managua.The Laguna de Xiloá, a stunning crater lake 12 miles (20km) northwest of the city, is a favorite swimming spot. At El Trapiche, 11 miles (17km) southeast of the city, water from natural springs has been channeled into large outdoor pools surrounded by gardens and restaurants.

Granada, nicknamed 'La Gran Sultana' is reference to its Moorish namesake in Spain, is Nicaragua's oldest Spanish city. Founded in 1524 by conquistadores, it rumps up against the imposing Volcán Mombacho on the the northwest shore of Lake Nicaragua. With its access to the Caribbean Sea via the lake and the San Juan River, Granada has always been a main trade center. Today the town is relatively quiet and a major literary center, and retains its colonial character. It's a wonderful walking city, with most major attractions, including the Cathedral and Parque Colón, within a few blocks of the plaza. When you're ready to cool off, the lake is only a 15-minute walk away. The Assumption of Mary (August 15) is the town's biggest party day.

León is traditionally the most liberal of Nicaragua's cities and remains the radical and intellectual center of the country. Monuments to the revolution, including bold Sandinista murals, are dotted all over town, and many buildings are riddled with bullet holes. Though scarred by earthquakes and war, the city is resplendent with many fine colonial churches and official buildings. Its streets are lined with old Spanish-style houses that have white adobe walls, red-tiled roofs, thick wooden doors and cool garden patios. Its cathedral is the largest in Central America and features huge paintings of the Stations of the Cross by Antonio Sarria as well as the tomb of poet Rubén Darío. The Galería de Héroes y Mártires has a display that includes photos of those who died fighting for the FSLN during the 1978-79 revolution.

The capital of Nicaragua is spread across the southern shore of Lago de Managua and is crowded with more than a quarter of Nicaragua's population. It's been racked by natural disasters, including two earthquakes this century, and since the 1972 earthquake the city has had no center. Those returning to Managua after a few years will notice marked changes. An improving economy has produced a construction boom. It will be obvious, however, that the recovering economy has not benefited everyone, as poverty is still widespread.Several of Managua's attractions stand around the Plaza de la República, including the lakeside municipal cathedral, which has been reconditioned with help from foreign donors and is now open to the public. Near the cathedral is the recently renovated Palacio Nacional, which has two giant paintings of Augusto Sandino and Carlos Fonseca at the entrance.The Huellas de Acahualinca museum houses the ancient footprints of people and animals running toward the lake from a volcanic eruption. The Museo de la Revolución has interesting historical exhibits with an emphasis on the revolutionary struggle of this century. There are also several lagunas, or volcanic crater lakes, which are popular swimming spots.Barrio Martha Quezada is a residential district with many simple, cheap guesthouses and places to eat. This is where backpackers tend to congregate. On weekends there's dancing and partying around Plaza 19 de Julio.

Unlike the rest of Nicaragua, the Caribbean coast was never colonized: It remained a British protectorate until the late 1800s. The only part of the rainforest-covered coast usually visited by travelers is Bluefields, but some visitors also head out to the Corn Islands (Islas del Maíz). The journey from Managua to Bluefields involves a five-hour boat trip down the Río Escondido. Bluefields' mix of ethnic groups - including Indians (Miskitos, Ramas and Sumos), blacks and mestizos from the rest of Nicaragua - makes it an interesting place, and the people here definitely like to have a good time; there are several reggae clubs and plenty of dancing on the weekends.