The beaches around Lomé were once Togo's main attraction, with thousands of mainly European tourists descending on them every holiday season. The beaches remain, but you won't see many tourists clogging them up these days. Bear in mind that using the area's beaches can be hazardous, as there's a strong undertow and some locals use the sands as their toilet. Your best bet is to take a cab and head for the secluded and protected shores at Robinson's Plage, 9km (6mi) east of the town centre. As for swimming pools, try the Hôtel Sarakawa's Olympic-sized dip - the biggest in West Africa.

Hiking and camping are possible throughout the country, though oddly enough not always in the national parks. Check with the rangers before you set out. The flattish woodland savannah of La Fosse aux Lions makes for some lovely hiking excursions in the far northern reaches of the country, just south of Dapaong.

If you're in Togo during the second week in September, the Guin Festival in Glidji is not to be missed. Beginning that Thursday, the townspeople celebrate with four days of parading, dancing, drinking and other rituals both sacred and profane. Voodoo is the local religion, so people going into trances is a common, albeit bizarre, sight.

Public Holidays

1 January - New Year's Day

13 January - Liberation Day

24 January - Day of Victory

March or April - Easter holidays, Ras as-Sana, Tabaski

27 April - Independence Day

1 May - Labour Day

May or June - Ascention, Whit Monday

June or July - Eid al-Moulid

21 June

15 August - Assumption

1 November - All Saints' Day

25 December - Christmas

December or January - Eid al-Fitr